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Chôken (Nô Costume), Late Edo period (1789–1868), mid-19th century    Silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquer-paper strips, complex gauze weave with supplementary brocading wefts and self-patterned by areas of 1:2 'Z' twill interlacing; lined with silk, plain weave; dyed with beni, safflower.  The Art Institute of Chicago

Chôken (Nô Costume), Late Edo period (1789–1868), mid-19th century Silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquer-paper strips, complex gauze weave with supplementary brocading wefts and self-patterned by areas of 1:2 'Z' twill interlacing; lined with silk, plain weave; dyed with beni, safflower. The Art Institute of Chicago

Atsuita karaori (Nô Costume), Late Edo period (1789–1868), late 18th century    Silk, twill weave; gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper strips; lined with silk, plain weave.  The Art Institute of Chicago

gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper strips; lined with silk, plain weave. The Art Institute of Chicago

Nuihaku (Nô Costume), Middle Edo period (1716–1789), 18th century (additional patterning added early 19th century)    Silk, warp-float faced 4:1 satin weave; patterned with impressed gold and silver leaf; embroidered with silk in satin, single satin, and stem stitches; laid work and couching; lined with silk, plain weave.   The Art Institute of Chicago

Nuihaku (Nô Costume), Middle Edo period (1716–1789), 18th century (additional patterning added early 19th century) Silk, warp-float faced 4:1 satin weave; patterned with impressed gold and silver leaf; embroidered with silk in satin, single satin, and stem stitches; laid work and couching; lined with silk, plain weave. The Art Institute of Chicago

Nuihaki (Nô Costume), Late Edo period (1789–1868), early 19th century    Silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; patterned with impressed gold leaf; embroidered with silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped cotton in satin and single satin stitches; laid work and couching; lined with silk, plain weave; dyed with beni, safflower.  The Art Institute of Chicago

Nuihaki (Nô Costume), Late Edo period (1789–1868), early 19th century Silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; patterned with impressed gold leaf; embroidered with silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped cotton in satin and single satin stitches; laid work and couching; lined with silk, plain weave; dyed with beni, safflower. The Art Institute of Chicago

Chôken (Nô Costume), Late Meiji/early Taishô period, early 20th century    Silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper strips, complex gauze weave with supplementary brocading wefts.  The Art Institute of Chicago

Chôken (Nô Costume), Late Meiji/early Taishô period, early century Silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper strips, complex gauze weave with supplementary brocading wefts. The Art Institute of Chicago

Atsuita Karaori (Nô Costume), Late Edo period (1789–1868), early 19th century    Silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper strips, warp-float faced 2:1 'Z' twill weave with supplementary brocading wefts; lined with silk, plain weave. The Art Institute of Chicago

Atsuita Karaori (Nô Costume), Late Edo period early century Silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper strips, warp-float faced 'Z' twill weave with supplementary brocading wefts; lined with silk, plain weave. The Art Institute of Chicago

Surihaku (Nô Costume), Late Edo period (1789–1868), late 18th/early 19th century    Silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; patterned with impressed gold leaf; lined with silk, plain weave; dyed with beni, safflower.  The Art Institute of Chicago

patterned with impressed gold leaf; lined with silk, plain weave; dyed with beni, safflower. The Art Institute of Chicago

Chôken (Nô Costume), Late Edo period (1789–1868), mid-19th century    Silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquer-paper strips, complex gauze weave with supplementary brocading wefts and self-patterned by areas of 1:2 'Z' twill interlacing; lined with silk, plain weave; dyed with beni, safflower.  The Art Institute of Chicago

Chôken (Nô Costume), Late Edo period (1789–1868), mid-19th century Silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquer-paper strips, complex gauze weave with supplementary brocading wefts and self-patterned by areas of 1:2 'Z' twill interlacing; lined with silk, plain weave; dyed with beni, safflower. The Art Institute of Chicago

19th Century photograph of a woman wearing a juunihitoe, a layered Heian-era court garment.  Princesses and other noblewomen wore these layered robes in the Heian (Kyoto) royal court - 794-1192 ~

woman in costume of Fugiwara period - Isshin Ogawa National Anthropological Archive. Photograph looks to date about 1900

Tsukioka Kogyo   Japanese, 1869-1927    Ema, from the series "One Hundred No Dramas (Nogaku hyakuban)", 1898-1903    Color woodblock print.  The Art Institute of Chicago

Tsukioka Kogyo Japanese, Ema, from the series "One Hundred No Dramas (Nogaku hyakuban)", Color woodblock print. The Art Institute of Chicago

Karaori (Nô Costume), Middle/late Edo Period, 18th century    Silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper strips, twill weave; lined with silk; plain weave; dyed with beni, safflower.  The Art Institute of Chicago

Karaori (Nô Costume), Middle/late Edo Period, century Silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper strips, twill weave; lined with silk; dyed with beni, safflower. The Art Institute of Chicago

Tsukioka Kogyo   Japanese, 1869-1927    Tamura, from the series "One Hundred No Dramas (Nogaku hyakuban)", 1898-1903    Color woodblock print.  The Art Institute of Chicago

Tsukioka Kogyo Japanese, Tamura, from the series "One Hundred No Dramas (Nogaku hyakuban)", Color woodblock print. The Art Institute of Chicago

Nuihaku (Nô Costume), Momoyama period (1568–1603), 16th century    Silk, plain weave; patterned with resist dyeing, impressed gold leaf, and embroidered with silk in satin, single satin, surface satin and stem stitches; couching; lined with silk, plain weave; center back panels of silk, warp-float faced 3:1 twill weave self-patterned by areas of plain weave.  The Art Institute of Chicago

Nuihaku (Nô Costume), Momoyama period (1568–1603), 16th century Silk, plain weave; patterned with resist dyeing, impressed gold leaf, and embroidered with silk in satin, single satin, surface satin and stem stitches; couching; lined with silk, plain weave; center back panels of silk, warp-float faced 3:1 twill weave self-patterned by areas of plain weave. The Art Institute of Chicago

Karaori (Nô Costume), Late Edo period (1789–1868), late 18th/early 19th century    Silk and gold-leaf-paper strips, twill weave; resist dyed; lined with silk, plain weave (replacement).  The Art Institute of Chicago

Karaori (Nô Costume), Late Edo period late century Silk and gold-leaf-paper strips, twill weave; lined with silk, plain weave (replacement). The Art Institute of Chicago