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Table Saw Accessories
I don't use these torches a lot, but they sure come in handy when I need some instant heat on some project.
The greater thickness of the brush means it "loads" (varnish) quicker, and the load stays further down the bristles, making it easier (and more thorough) to clean.
These little clamping squares are perfect for box-making and probably even smaller picture frames.
Remember 4 things 1 - Stir the product VERY WELL 2 - If what you want to coat is shiny or soothe, it best to rough it up a bit with some 400 or 600 grit sandpaper to give a "tooth for the plastic to adhere to 3 - Clean your tool super clean, I used acetone to make sure I got all dust grime, and oil off and after you clean it, clean it again 4 - Ease the tool in and out of the dipping agent slowly, they say 5 seconds for every inch, I might have been slower, but slow is good for this.
The purpose of the turret is to work with the height or depth gauge that is located directly above the turret. The 2 of them work together to help the operator set an appropriate depth for the router bit to sink into the wood for things like rabbets, dados, and other similar cuts. They are super simple to use when you know how, and once you do, you will ALWAYS use them. After your bit is installed and tightened, bottom th
Here's a jig I've found handy, it's actually a series of round-over templates for using my palm router to round over the corners of tables and similar items and get perfectly matched rounded corners.
Amazon Find: Here's a very innovative speed square with some new kinds of features, that were surprisingly accurate!
I often use clamping devices like this when assembling or dry-fitting projects!
Use "Dowel Finders" in the collet of your wood router to help you find the center of a new base plate you may be making. I have made several base plates for my router over the years, and yes, finding the center of these is a bit of a challenge (yes you can purchase a special tool for this, but I don't do enough of this work to justify the cost) Lee's idea is great because it gives us yet another use for a dowel center finder, a quick and easy way of marking a new base plate.
I understand why so many people are interested in what's in my drawers because I am often interested in what other woodworkers have in their drawers that are not obvious, like what tools they have and how they arrange their drawers, or even if they do arrange them. I have seen them all, drawers that are neat as a pin and organized like fine jewelry and drawers that are helter-skelter with seemingly no rhyme or reason, except in the mind of the woodworker ... and that is really all that counts.
When you need to center a tabletop, on a set of legs you have constructed, your combination square is an easy tool to help make sure all sides are equal.
I use this method OFTEN with my combination squares, a quick way of finding a center on leg ends, or for marking "reveals" for aprons on table legs.
I don't use this method often, but once in a while I need to set my saw blades at a specific height and my crappy combination square is fine for this. Warning ... do NOT bump your carbide-tipped blade with the steel portion of your combination square as even a small bump can chip a tooth, the body of most cheaper combination squares are cast aluminum which does not pose a high hazard of doing the same thing, but regardless, best to go gentle with this just the same.
Another way of using your less-than-accurate combination square is as a precise, and adjustable "stop" for your miter gauge. I you need to make some precise cuts, and maybe even adjust and test as you go, you can easily loosen the adjusting screw on the ruler and move it back and forth as needed to make alternate cuts.
My biggest problem was simply "assuming" that every combination square was true and accurate. Sadly, most of the cheap ones are NOT. Using an inaccurate combination square as a measuring tool is probably the only thing you can do with it that would be reliable.
Anyone who has used Splines will attest to the fact that they can be finickity to get exactly right for their thickness, but a nice sharp, well-set-up block plane can fix this up in no time. I don't have a picture here, but mounting a block plane in your wood vice, bottom side up, is another great way of using it for trimming small parts for more intricate woodworking like intarsia, model making, and inlay work.
Long before there were routers, wood planes were used for making round-overs and they still can be. By figuring out the upper and lower sides of your radius, you can make perfect round-overs that only need a tiny bit of sanding to be perfect ... and again, save all the dust in the air from sanding or using a wood router.
Another great use of a block plane is to remove saw blade marks from the wood you have cut. In a situation where you are using plywood for something like shelving and are cutting your own strips of wood or veneers, a block plane is a useful tool for trimming the veneer or edging flush with the surface of the plywood, If you want to "sneak up" on the edge of the plywood during this process, cutting a very slight angle will allow you to do this and still give the appearance of a squared off edge.